Dallas Chop House debuts on Main Street

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dallas chop house

Published: 07 January 2010 11:15 AM

Location, location, location. Downtown's glitzy new steak haven, DALLAS CHOP HOUSE, boasts prime cuts and prime real estate. The restaurant anchors the Main Street-St. Paul corner of the Philip Johnson-designed Comerica Bank building, and has a sleek glass lounge overlooking the new Main Street Garden. The vibe? Contemporary with a twang, thanks to a sleek shell by Dallas' 5G Studio Collaborative and panoramic stampede by Fort Worth artist James R. Spurlock.

We got a mid-December preview of DC (the nickname also shows up on the eatery's steak-branding iron) with owner Mike Hoque, the Bangladesh-born, Dubai-raised founder of Go Fish Ocean Club, Fish Express and Dallas Fish Market. He tapped cowboy chef Kenny Mills (who often cooks wearing his 5X beaver-felt hat) to head up DC's kitchen.

"We're a traditional steakhouse but with a few curveballs," says Mills, silencing his cellphone ringer as AC/DC's "Back in Black" begins guitar-grinding. He's referring to unexpected dishes such as veal piccata sweetbreads and crawfish maque choux. As for the star attraction, Mills and consulting chef-partner Randy Morgan lined the meat cooler with blocks of Himalayan sea salt. "It pulls out some of the moisture and intensifies the flavor," Mills explains. "The process adds saline to the air and helps cure the meat. I know of only two or three other restaurants in the country that do it."

And we'll assume Dallas Chop House is the nation's only restaurant with its own "steak library." Plans call for the private dining space - cowhide-clad doors, butcher's block tables - to offer every American steak book in print.

Dallas Chop House, 1717 Main St., 214-736-7300

Christopher Wynn